Friday, October 24, 2014

What I mean by "Digne"

About a week in to my 2 weeks of vacation, I am currently couchsurfing in beautiful (but chilly!) Turin, Italy, with the coolest Italian chick, Alice. Note to non-Italians/Americans: pronounce her name ah-lee-chay or else she will be very confused/mostly won't realize you are trying to talk to her (made for some giggles the first night).

Anyway, while I am away, might as well do a quick introduction of the place I have (temporarily) left behind: Digne-les-Bains, my "tiny mountain village" in France. I can't say I really miss anything there yet...except maybe my gym. My trip has been extraordinary so far--so much so that I can't really believe it. Everything is coming up Caro. I don't know what I did to deserve the kindness and amazing opportunities I've had on my adventure, and it makes me so happy because I was a little nervous to travel alone so much, considering that I am pretty much always alone in Digne anyway (just me on a mountain in a corner of the world..."isolated" doesn't even begin to cover it).

BUT here is my beautiful home, where the best of nature is a step outside my front door, people are nice, bread is good, and wine is cheap.
Blink and you'll miss it?

A short hike rewards you with killer views of Digne in all its glory 
The view fro my gym! When it's nice out, I take a mat out in the open air, surrounded by mountains. (The log cabin lookin' building is the movie theater, which in a small town is a major social center). 

A gray Wednesday morning market (market days are Wednesday and Saturday) with Digne's cathedral in the background

Ancient varieties of tomatoes-21 kinds! 

Chapel 2 of 3 on the hiking path called "Les Trois Chapelles," which is one of my favorites. 

Was on a run next to these little shrub things and suddenly the wind blew my way--ALERT ALERT THE SHRUBS ARE LAVENDER

Old Town

How I start my morning, every single day (+coffee): banane, muesli, yaourt!

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Planète Mars

The weekend of October 3rd or so (the days are starting to blur here, it's vacations!!), I went to my special orientation/introduction as a teaching assistant in the Académie d'Aix-Marseille, which was rather inconveniently held in Marseille. Over 200 assistants from all over the world poured in, since we are all teaching in this region. The official orientation took place on Monday and Tuesday, so most people arrived sometime Sunday. However, since Marseille is the 2nd largest city in France (after Paris), I decided it was probably worth a real visit, so I took the bus (2, actually) there on Friday, and put myself up in a hostel for two nights, before moving to the hotel the French government was paying for all the assistants to stay in.

I have heard a lot of mixed reviews about Marseille, ranging from sketchy port city to be avoided at all costs to beautiful, vibrant beach city that is a nice vacation from typical France.

After my time there, in which I befriended a native Marseillaise on the bus (who later took me around the city a bit and very kindly invited me to dinner with her family) and met some cool assistants during the orientation, I have to say that I remain divided on Marseille. All in all...I prefer...every other city I have been to in France. But Marseille has its own charms, and I need to go back to see les Calanques! Anyway, here is the visual sketch of what I did there:

Dinner, night #1, Vieux Port: une pizza "metta-metta" (half sardine, half cheese), which normally I never would have ordered, but I read a couple blogs that said it was a Marseille classic, so I had to try it. Salty. 

Le Vieux Port, with the stunning Notre Dame de la Garde in the background (The church-you have to climb a freakin' mountain to get there but your reward is a STUNNING view of the city)

A storefront in Le Panier, the old quartier of the city. Easy to get lost in. A pleasure to get lost in. 

Marseille, as seen from Notre Dame de la Garde. Told you it was worth the hike. 

The church! Truly stunning. Apparently the patron saint of the church protects all the sailors that sail into/out of the port of Marseille.

The interior is stunning, and little mobiles with ships hang down from the ceiling, referencing those marins (sailors) that the saint works so hard to protect!

A staircase that serves as a principal entryway to the Cours Julien, the artsy neighborhood. (For those who are very familiar with Paris, Cours Julien=Oberkampf. 'Nuff said).

The colorful Cours Julien, full of cute little cafés and bars (tapas seem all the rage amongst the French hipsters) and of course, artists' ateliers (studios)

A view of Marseille's grungy-cool side: a skate park I discovered entirely on accident!

Le Palais de Longchamp, the highlight of my Marseille trip. So beautiful, with the public parks just behind and the two museums within (on the left, the Musée des Beaux-Arts, and on the right, the museum of natural history). 

A view from the fountain of the palais de Longchamp


So, Marseille--Pros and Cons:

PROS: Lots of diversity, with each neighborhood being COMPLETELY different from the other--you turn a corner and the vibe changes completely, totally taking you off guard (for better or for worse). But it can be a very pleasant surprise.
-Proximity to water, lots of sunshine, the beautiful port, especially when it's all lit up at night.
-Beautiful landmarks like the Palais de Longchamp and l'Église Notre Dame de la Garde
-Great pizza and cous cous! I will take either, or both, any day.

CONS: I felt mildly unsafe the whole time I was in Marseille. I had to brace myself every time I left my hostel/hotel room, which was emotionally exhausting. It wasn't paranoia, either: while in Marseille, I was cat-called, followed, whistled at, hollered at, kissed at, serenaded, etc etc. That was also not particularly enjoyable. I mostly just wanted to be left alone...
-Much of the city just simply is not attractive. Architecture-wise, it's just urban and a bit dirty, frankly. The Vieux Port was great, but most of the other areas (trust me, I walked a lot, I am not making this up without any justification) were lackluster, to say the least.

As I said, the jury's out on this one. But it was not the coup de foudre that I usually have upon discovering a new french city!

P.S. Speaking of, I'm currently in Nice on vacation, and it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. You best believe I'll do a post on it, and try to do it justice....eventually!

Sunday, October 5, 2014

That time I went to Aix and took pictures of windows.

Maybe I was just a little over Aixcited, but as I went through my photos from my weekend in Aix, I realized most of them were just of windows. Aix is beautiful. All the buildings are washed in this yellow-gold color I call "Cezanne's sunlight" and the rickety wooden shutters are a periwinkle lavender blue. It's so pretty-it's no wonder this part of France served as inspiration for so much good art!

It was my first full weekend in France, since I had arrived in Digne at night the Sunday before, but rather than stay all alone in the dormitories (it will just be teaching assistants on the grounds every weekend, which is going to be super eerie and I can't say I'm dying to experience it), I accepted my friend Anne's gracious invitation to crash at her place in Aix. Technically, it was her AirBnB, since she hadn't moved into her apartment yet. Anne is another teaching assistant I met in DC this summer; she was my partner in CAVA crime on Tuesday wine nights at their Eastern Market location. (God, I miss the crazy feta...)

Anyway, a shortish bus ride from Digne and a shuttle from AIX TGV station-->AIX Centre, and I had arrived! I fell absolutely in love with Aix in the time it took me to walk to Anne's place. Cute shops and café-bars abounding, good looking young people EVERYWHERE, and lots of lavender perfuming the air. (Anne did a blog post on les marchés aixois and how they really do smell like herbes de Provence and lavender sachets, and I was like Yeah right, it can't be that picturesque-YOU LIE. Turns out, she was right. It's magical. You can see Anne's adorable blog for yourself! www.hardlysnarky.com)

Seriously though, look how pretty: THE WINDOWS OF AIX



Ok, I guess I did take some other photographs, too.
The famous Cours Mirabeau, lit up at night. The wide boulevard sort of seems like Provence's take on the Champs-Élysées, with its overpriced cafés and ritzy air, but it's a lot more tolerable. 

It's easy to walk down little streets in Aix and stumble into restaurant-filled squares like this one, which was particularly bustling

Saturday morning marché! Lavender and herbes de Provence every where you looked

Calissons d'Aix, the city's special treat: essentially a paste of candied fruit and ground almonds, topped with royal icing. The vendor here told me most people don't know that calisson meant smile, and they were named for a woman!

Bright blue lavender cheese! Probably more for the tourists than locals, but I still think it's awesome. The dubious French couple next to me, however, did not agree. They were very freaked out by the color

Pretty buildings on pretty buildings on...a calisson candy shop!

This boulangerie deserves to be mentioned because I pretty much lived off of their baguettes while I was in Aix. The place is tiny, super authentic (hot and bare bones inside, often with a line of Frenchies out the door) and makes some of the best bread I have ever had. They keep cranking out baguettes all day, so no matter what time you go, you can often get them fresh out of the oven! It's heaven. 
 I wasn't just in Aix to eat baguettes and take pictures of windows, I was also there to party make friends. On Saturday night a ton of language assistants and friends (some Frenchies, an Erasmus girl, etc.) met up at La Rotonde in centre ville and went out together. It was nice to have some human interaction and go out with people my age, but it was also just really cool to have people from all over the world in the same room, makin' friends. Not everyone could speak English, so French was our unifying language, and we spoke French the entire night out. I was just really impressed by the whole thing-it felt awesome. Digne is a bit of a trek away but I am hoping I'll see them again sometime soon!
In this picture alone, the following countries are represented: Spain, France, Egypt, England, Germany. Madness.
Aix is amazing. I want a window there of my very own one day.

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Paris, Revisited.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BKGS2hNp-o (Musical inspiration and thematic relevance?)

Let me jump back in time for a minute. I know I just posted a couple of things from Digne, but I haven't quite settled in there fully. So the whole "Yay I'm here! Look at my new home!" post is yet to come. It's not easy to...to try to be a real person, a normal person, in a tiny town in France. I am, and will forever be, the token American. I'm just trying to feel comfortable, and above all to make a few (just a few!) connections with people. Real French people. That's the dream.

But I digress.

Post Hutcheson roots tour, things ended up falling into place beautifully, in that I was able to get a Eurostar from London to Paris, spend a few days there ALL BY MYSELF, and then meet up with one of my very best friends in the whole wide word, AnneBAM! You may recognize her from this blog, since she is my twin and kindred spirit, whom I met during my semester in Paris. So it was truly wonderful that we were able to spend a weekend in Paris. It's funny, because before saying goodbye in 2013, we would muse about a reunion in France, and then it became a reality. I truly never would have predicted that.

En gros, my time in Paris was fantastic. It is so nice to be able to arrive in one of the biggest and most-visited cities in the word, and immediately know the language, know the sites, know the culture. I never feel out of place there--though that's not to say that I don't feel my foreign-ness. But this time, it felt a little bit like coming home. That being said, I was surprised by some "firsts" experienced there, in the place I thought I knew so well. Namely...

**Note: My first stay in a hostel! Somehow, through a whole semester abroad, I got away with staying in cheap hotels, with friends, or with Couchsurfers. I have to admit that I was anxious, but curious: I couldn't wait to experience my first hostel! It was good to be in Paris though, because at least it was a familiar place. I stayed in 2 hostels in Paris (The St. Christopher's Gare du Nord hostel by myself, and BVJ-Louvre Fri-Sun. with Anne). Both were great!**

Another beautiful run in Paris, which remains one of my favorite places to pound the pavement, despite some cold looks and the inevitable tourist-dodging

I was lucky enough to arrive in Paris on a Wednesday night, allowing me to visit my favorite Thursday morning markets! This is marché Bastille.

Post market picnic lunch, in front of the Eiffel Tower. Look closely!

Hostel friends! I stayed in a 10-bed female-only dorm at the St. Christopher's Gare du Nord hostel in Paris, and it was just a room full of female empowerment: I was SHOCKED by the number of solo female travelers, just like me, who were brave enough to take on Paris! I really admired them. In this picture, I took Canadian Lyrica and Australian Ellen out to dinner at a tiny Moroccan place nestled in the streets beside the Sacre-Coeur, when they requested a meal off the beaten track. Go girls go!!

Here's a way to walk off mounds of cous cous: walk a million steps, and take in one of the most beautiful churches at night. I was surprised to experience another Paris first at this moment: Sacre-Coeur at night! I have never been there at such a late hour (nearly midnight?) because my friends and I didn't go out in Montmartre and it would be a little sketchy for me to venture there alone. Turns out, the youths congregate on the steps to drink and bavarder. The cornucopia of beer bottles lined up next to the overflowing trash cans serves as proof.

Um...shall we count an Australian-led hostel striptease as another Paris first? No comment. No wait, just one: it was great.

Another Paris first: a boat tour! I felt a bit touristy (which I think is why I never did this before...I was also probably too poor while i was living there), but it was great. Got a little sun, learned some things, and saw a whole new view of my city. For example, this statue below one of Paris' many bridges, which used to be used to gauge the Seine's water level--I NEVER would have known it was there! (P.S. fun fact: in 1910 the water was up to his neck).

Seine-side sunbathers, seen from the boat.
On Saturday, AnneBAM (angel that she is) let me make us brunch reservations at my pick, Chez Casimir. It interested me for 2 reasons: 1) same owners as Chez Michel, a restaurant which is apparently beautiful and is featured in many of my Paris food guides, but is a little out of my price range, and 2) it's literally next to the apartment building where I lived during study abroad. We NEVER went to chez moi for anything (NEVER) so it was very gratifying to come back to Paris and find ourselves headed towards Poissonière/Gare du Nord. Tenth arrondo, WADDUP!

The view from our sidewalk table at brunch- my church!

The brunch appetizers spread, à volonté aka buffet style! Let me just draw attention to the hunk of beurre in the middle. I may have gone back multiple times just for more butter. It takes like salty heaven. 

Côtes du Rhône in the 5th, comme d'hab. Anne and I sought shelter from the rain (the sun left us midway through the weekend, unfortunately) on a stoop next to the Panthéon, to the amusement of an apartment full of young people watching us from above.

Classic Paris, Smiley Anne



Wednesday, October 1, 2014

France Faux Pas #1: Caro Goes to the Gym

For those of you who don’t know me, fact #1 is I’m a bit of a gym freak. I’ve been lucky to have access to a gym at the University of Michigan but also at home in DC, so it’s just a part of my routine. I feel really uncomfortable taking a shower if I’m not offensively sweaty, so I work out. Pretty much daily, usually 6 days a week. Sometimes I’ll stay at the gym a few hours at a time; it’s fun and there’s tons of stuff to do—move around on a gravity-defying machine I call the “Moon Walker,” lift heavy things, play on bouncy balls, roll around on squishy mats on the floor and contort your body in novel ways. 
Fact #2- I love cheese. Like, could eat it every day, at every meal, forever and always. I don’t know when this started, but it’s out of control. Last time I was in France for an extended period, when I studied in Paris for a semester my junior year of college, I gained like 15 lbs and pretty much morphed into a living, breathing cheese sculpture. (For those who are now reading with judgy eyes, know this: weight gain is ok if it’s happy weight. No regrets). 
Facts #1 and #2 worked in tandem to change my approach to fitness this time around in France. In Paris, I was a proud glutton; my workouts generally meant walking from pastry shop to pastry shop or shifting positions during a wine-soaked Seine-side picnic. Now that I’m in France for a year, however, and I would prefer to lose 15 lbs rather than gain it, I signed up at a local fitness center the day after I arrived here in Digne. That was yesterday. The nice lady at the front desk let me take a look around the facilities, and then the whole registration process took about 10 minutes: fill out a one-page form, pay, get your entry pass, done. I went back in the afternoon, lifted weights, and biked a bit. All was well.
Tonight, I went to the gym. The cardio machines are limited (5 in total; 2 bikes, 2 treadmills, 1 elliptical) and I get bored easily, so I decided to try a class that was beginning soon after I arrived. “Step Inter, 1 hr.” Seemed harmless enough. I took a “Muscle UP” class fairly frequently back home, where we would do little moves on our steps while holding dumbbells—it was a pretty good workout, and I had better coordination than most. In short, I figured I’d be fine.
I set up my spot in the class room and noticed that none of the gym-goers around me were very muscled, and no one had weights beside them (in hindsight, that should have been my first clue). I asked my neighbor; yup, a step was all we needed. At 5:45 PM on the dot, a fit middle-aged man swept into the room, put on some upbeat American dance music, and began a simple warm up. Step on the bench, step off. Repeat. I began to fear that I wouldn't get enough of a workout.
Ten minutes later, I miss the warm up. I am drunkenly stumbling on and off my step in a daze, trying to watch the graceful woman in front of me as she completes the complicated steps (knee up, kick, turn, sashay, turn, step on, step off, turn, what is that even called?!, turn, etc). I can only faintly here the instructor up front calling out the moves. I realize this isn't a problem for anyone else; they already know the steps! The injustice! In the corner of my eye, I see a few people just outside the classroom and I swear to god, they are laughing at me. Hell, I’m laughing at myself. 
My amusement soon turns to misery, however, as the complicated steps turn into even more complicated combinations. Rather than step-touching between moves—BAM! BAM! BAM!—the instructor starts to throw them together in sequence. I get it, I mean, it looks great when everyone else does it. White swans galore in this gym-turned-dance studio. I myself am sweating, more from embarrassment than exertion, and have given up on faking the steps. I step-touch and half-heartedly knee-up until the idea of another half hour of this torture is intolerable. Quietly, I admit defeat and put my step away, retrieve my things, and walk out with my tail between my legs. 
The humiliation continues as I exit the room and am forced to confront the bemused spectators: “I give up. That’s just not possible for me to do!” I sigh, smiling in a way that I hope is charmingly self-deprecating, and thankfully receive some laughs. I choose to believe that they were laughing with me. 
Just outside the locker room, an inferiority complex rears its ugly head—I need to feel strong and capable. Out comes my computer, and my sole ally in the world of French gyms: Shaun T. It's about to get INSANE. I opt for the “Fit Test,” which (for those of you who haven’t tried the Insanity workout program) is a series of 8 moves that you do for a minute each, amounting to a good total-body workout that leaves you laying on the floor in a puddle of sweat. I only wished my classmates could see me crank out squats and push-ups; that’d teach ‘em. 

I end up tired and sweaty, and yet…something is still nagging me. The nice lady at the front desk—the same who signed me up—also witnessed my self-imposed early dismissal from the front desk. Upon passing, she urges me to try the next class that’s about to begin, “Abdos Fessiers, 1 hr.” Abs and butt? I automatically read “Crunches and Squats,” and hope swells within me—I CAN DO IT! 

One Week Later: 

And guess what? I did it! And I'm going again tonight! I have to pay super close attention to everyone around me so I can make sure I am doing everything right, but the instructions are getting easier to understand. It's quite a lot of "En haut!" and "En bas!" and "Encore!" (Up, Down, and Again!) from the instructor, and "Aïe!" and "Oh la la!" from my classmates (Both of those exclamations, in this context, translate rather clearly: "OW!"). I feel like I've taken a step to participate in the Digne community by joining the gym, and I can at least be proud of myself for that. New vocabulary will just be an added bonus.

4:37 AM, Before the Dream Fog Evaporates.

First, at a historical campsite (imagine the Grand Canyon, but there were lots of escalators and a shopping mall underground where this young girl asked me for advice on lipgloss. She bought 3, at $12.99 apiece, which I thought was crazy) the security guard was totally unhelpful and it got pitch black so no one could get anywhere or find each other. Ariana walked for an hour and somehow ended up exactly back where she was at the top of the escalators. Becca did the same and was getting a little frantic.
Later, we were all at some party and I broke Jordan’s ice/water dispenser thing built into her freezer. The next day I was going to sleep over at Jordan’s and it was super awkward because her Mom called her (while I was with her) and was like, “Carrie BROKE our ice machine last night.” To make it worse, I was supposed to sleep over at Jordan’s that night, and I didn’t want it to be weird, so I was like, “It’s totally cool, I think I faintly remember breaking it, I will totally pay for it. It can’t be that bad right?”
“It’s like $100.”
“Oh…OK, well I’ll give her like $50 and get the rest to her…next week.”
“It’s fine she’ll probably take $30 and give you $20 back.”
At our sleepover, I was really excited for breakfast the next day because Jordan had a shop in her house that was FULL of all these different giant bagels, but they looked more like oatmeal cookies, which was really exciting. In the window of the shop, leaning against a giant bagel, a book was on display with the title “MANCHEGO.” On the front cover was a picture of chocolate mousse, presumably made with Manchego. I really wanted to read it because-judging from the cover-it would be full of unique, flavorful ways to use one of my favorite cheeses. I told Jordan I couldn’t WAIT for breakfast, and she glanced at the shop and sort of brushed it off nonchalantly, saying she was always too lazy to eat bagels anyway. 
Then we watch a movie. Batman:Eloquence, I think it was called—the second in the trilogy. Jared Leto was in it. Batman was in the movie, obviously, but so were tons of other heroes. In the scene we were watching, they were all smashed between these two metal walls that had moved in on them to crush them, but this one hero had super strength and super stretch as his powers so he just kinda spread-eagled himself (one hand and one foot on each wall) and pushed outward, so then they just flew the Batmobile out to safety.
School was really dramatic, too. It was high school, but in my elementary school. An ex-boyfriend from college came to visit me and I was freaking out that he was going to break up with me, even though we weren't together (in my dream, I recognized this irrational fear, and that was part of the emotional torment). In the end, I passed by him in the hallway—I saw him giving his earbuds to another ex-girlfriend of his to show her a song on his iPod and that was the straw that broke the camel’s back—and ignored him completely. I came upon a little corner of the front lobby at school, where Cassie was crying profusely while Henry shushed her and patted her back. I was unfazed since Cassie always cries, but then someone was like, “You should go comfort her, she’s sad because Henry is leaving but I think she wants you.” So I did and it was ok. 
Then I was with Kelly, playing video games: Batman. I was playing and she was sitting sort of off on the side, jokingly ribbing me about leaving for France, telling me things that people who are willing to up and leave the country do, just in general. She was saying I should write a novel in three parts, because that was totally something someone who was leaving the country would do. Unrelated, Kelly also said falling in love the day before leaving was also totally something the aforementioned “someone” would do. I just kept playing the game, but I knew I’d played it a million times before so it was losing its intrigue. Basically, I was attached to this bungee cord/zipline and just jerked around between all these industrial buildings, construction sites, and parking structures (Gotham City?) and the only tough parts were a) keeping your head tucked so as not to hit it against a cement pillar or a crane or something, and b) at the end they bounce you to the side of a parking ramp and you can push off to accelerate a bit but you really have to get to the side because a car with a bad guy comes speeding down the ramp at that precise moment to get you (aka Batman) and that’s the only way you can narrowly avoid him. I was wondering if maybe I was too heavy for my zip line, because during the last part, my bum once hit the parking garage floor, and that’s for sure not supposed to happen.  
Anyway, the game was getting really boring and predictable, so I kinda got lazy with it. At one point during the last bit, I barely even pushed off the parking garage floor, so my bungee didn’t pull be back, and I was kinda just left here as a little green car printed with “ASSASSIN” across the front peeled sharply around the corner, nearly hitting me (I gave the car a little kick but it didn't do anything to deter him). The driver was super excited to finally have the chance to fulfill his role and kill Batman, since he had been in the game a while and knew his evil role was pretty much superficial, so he got out of the car and ran at me to beat me to death. I hit him on the head with a frying pan, but it was lightweight and he was taller than me so it didn’t do much.
Suddenly, I realized he was super cute. Plus, I really liked that he used a phrase with lots of alliteration that included the words “ sniveling scumbag,” because no young guys these days would speak like that. I stopped what I was doing, and so did he, and we started smiling at each other. Then we walked out of the parking structure together holding hands, and went on a date. 
I late got a message from Kelly that said, “Going on a date the day before you leave the country and falling in love is 323-363% something that someone who was leaving would do. You should write a novel in three parts about your budding relationship and the difficulties of long-distance! It would be so good.”


THE END